Namaste! Nepal 2011

Well, it happened: I went to another place I've wanted to for a long time. After leaving Boston and 3.5 weeks with my family and friends this summer, I headed southeast on a 17 hour flight to drop off my luggage and repack for Nepal. After too much time in the air and the hassles of Kaust security, I dashed into my house and spent the next 6 hours frantically packing so I'd make my next flight heading...northeast. I got into Kathmandu pretty late, went right to the hotel and fell fast asleep.

I spent the next day sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley with a guide and driver. We went to Pashupati Area, which is on the river and includes a Hindu temple and old folks home. Nepalis have funeral ceremonies there and we saw a few cremations as we walked around. It was packed with people, some crying and some laughing and celebrating. We also went to the cultural city of Bhaktapur and took pictures of temples and shrines and all sorts of fun stuff. There is a pottery district in Bhaktapur, not far from famous Durbar Square. We watched artisans spin pots and haul hay in for drying the clay. We finished up at Boudhanath Stupa, where we ate lunch and went to see a Thangka school. Thangka is a popular form of Buddhist painting which involves a great deal of color and detail. The Boudhanath area is basically a big bazaar built around the stupa, where you can eat, shop, pray, paint, etc...mainly I ate and took some pictures.

The next morning, I flew to Lukla with a different guide, Rovin. We met our Porter, Santos at the airport in Lukla and began what we thought would be a 12 day program. Because of cloud cover in Lukla, we stayed an extra 4 days before returning to Kathmandu. Flights were canceled, so we stayed at the guesthouse playing cards and drinking Tongba. The trek was something hard to describe. It was an array of sights, smells, and surroundings. Sometimes I gaped at the landscape, sometimes I laughed, and sometimes I cried. I was very fortunate to be with Rovin and Santos and both of them took very good care of me. I stayed healthy the whole time, only coming down with mild altitude sickness symptoms which were easily resolved by an extra acclimatization day in Namche. It would be futile to go into an account of all the emotions I felt while there, so I'll leave the pictures to narrate.

When we got back to Kathmandu, I still had 3 days before I had to be in Saudi, so Rovin pretty much entertained me the rest of the time, taking me to the monkey temple (no pics....I was too busy relaxing), a close by hike, and all around Thamel and downtown Kathmandu for a traditional dal bhaat lunch. He taught me a good deal of Nepalese and became a good friend. I hope to go back again and again. Enjoy the pics....

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P.S. I really think this is something everyone should do if they have the means. It's a place unlike any I've been or even imagined. It will stay with me for a long time...probably always. Its not hard to do- trekking can be very cheap and even the walking isn't difficult in Everest Region. There are steep sections, but with varying terrain and experienced guides, it's feasible for people of most fitness levels.

If you do decide to do this, use the same company I used. Here is a link for them:
http://www.acethehimalaya.com/index.php

Masai Mara Kenya Africa

Everyone should do this sometime in their life. It was amazing! The camp was beautiful and the people were warm and kind and welcoming. We made friends with a Masai man who called himself Joseph, though his Masai name was Oleshargegilololtoriroi, meaning son of the man with a long bladed spear. He was amazing and dressed in his traditional Masai garb. He told us stories of his village and family and way of life. He actually met some campers and became friends with them a few years back and he now goes to Bangor, Maine every few years in the summer. He visits them at their lake camp. Hahaha! Maybe I'll catch up with him this summer, when I'm home.

We saw everything you can imagine. Even the Rhino and Leopard...which is a rarity. I went with 2 best friends here at Kaust and it was the most amazing thing I've ever done by far! I wish I was still there. We had Baboons in the front yard of our tent. We heard no sounds except for animals and the wind....

Pictures:

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Please go on a Kenyan safari and stay at the Mara Intrepids....you won't regret it. Look for Ole and get his ear for a moment. He's got some crazy stories!

Desert Dog Debut

I know I don't update my blog enough and I've never put any pictures of Bowie on until now, but its gets cumbersome because every time I open the site, its in Arabic and I have to go through like 4 or 5 steps to get it back to English and its just...well, annoying. But this post is long overdue...my friends from the dog park have all reminded me and teased me about it...what about Bowie, how is Bowie, why no pictures of Bowie?

My dog is the only family I have on this wild ride with me, so its only right he should have some mention here and some pictures, so everyone out there can see what the coolest zoetic being on this green ball named earth looks like. He is a four legged treasure and has total unconditional love for me...its really quite a thing to see- he is my shadow and always stays close, laying at my feet at the end of the day, racing up and down the beach walk ways to make sure I'm still following the same path, and always waiting on the other side of the door, tail wagging. He wouldn't dream of abandoning me...not even to get out of the hot, dry desert. He is a wonder dog.

He can be seen here in his natural surroundings, hanging out at the weekly doggie play group we go to. See everyone, he really does get to have some fun on this adventure! I'll let the pictures do the talking. Also included are some lounging around the house photos and one set from a night we were washed out here with floods...some flood footage made on one of the albums. Enjoy!

See pictures here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=89149&id=1632204269&l=931860af66

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A Dream Actualized

So I can remember wanting to go to India when I was very young. I didn't know what I was looking at-even that a place named India existed. I was interested, drawn to the pictures of mountains I saw in a book. I've enjoyed scaling, climbing, getting high...to higher places for as long as I can remember. There's a rush, a good, comforting felling about being a tiny speck, way up high in a huge, huge place. Its nice to feel small and be able to look across county lines, state lines, across rivers and lakes and lay your gaze clear through patches of sunlight on to encroaching clouds.

This began the desire and I tucked it neatly, safely, and quietly away in the dresser drawer, in a far corner underneath the conventions, conveniences, and niceties of my life in Maine and New Hampshire. It was a page in a book, 2D and glossy- bound. It was something romantically intangible and over time became just another thing that would be "cool to do".

I flew to Calcutta on November 11th. I flew to Bagdogra on November 12th. I spent 9 days seeing Calcutta, Darjeeling, Pelling, Gangtok, and Rumtek India. They are all cities in the sates of West Bengal (Calcutta and Darjeeling) and Sikkim (Pelling, Gangtok, and Rumtek) and each have their own charm. I didn't do any true mountain climbing. I was traveling alone and the weather was sub par, so I decided to see the cities and their people instead. I did 2 pretty long treks and one short day hike, but they certainly weren't what I envisioned when I made the plan to go to the foothills of the Himalayas. I'll climb from the Nepalese side this summer if everything works out. That being said, I had a blast in India. I was shocked, stunned, and stopped- speechless by its beauty. My pictures aren't great, not even good, but they begin to capture a little bit of each of the places I went.

Arthur and Oneil made the trip really great. I don't have anything much to say about it except enjoy the photos.

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Back to the binding, the reading, the touching pages for a while.

Madain Saleh and 20+ Hours on a Bus with New Friends

Went to Madain Saleh over the weekend. Its an ancient Bedouin village built in the hillsides of miniature desert mountains.

It was grand! The ride was supposed to take 7 hours, but ended up being a 10.5 hour trip. It was great though! Kaust teachers, university students, staff, and university professors all went, so it was quite the mixer. I met so many new people (always the best part of this wild ride I'm on) who I star gazed with when our bus got stuck in the desert sand and we waited an hour for taxis to come get us. We saw lots of old, old tombs, palaces, trains, and spots of sacrifice. I climbed a few mini mountains and laid in a 6,000 year old grave...spooky thing to do, but I was after all missing the Halloween bash back on campus to see all this history.

I'm still amazed that I get to live in a country most people will never see because of the restrictions on entering...its a wild, wild ride I'm on for sure. I stood at the foot of the king's tomb. Headless eagles are placed at the places of sacrifice and on the tops of the doorways entering tombs and palaces....they thought of the eagle as a guardian. I still don't know why the eagles are headless. I was too busy climbing mountains and laying in graves to ask our tour guide.

The hotel was fine and the food good. The company was great. The ride was long. The sights were just jaw dropping and the pictures don't really do them justice, but you can get a feel for the communal aspect of living by some of the shots and if you look close you can see the awe in my eyes.

On the way back, we got pulled over by the police. We were supposed to leave the hotel at 5pm, but left at 3pm and thus, didn't have the proper paperwork to be driving at that time. Our guide had to return to the hotel (lucky we had just gotten on the road 45 minutes prior) and fix the paperwork. The police then, gave us an escort the entire way back to Kaust, after yelling for all the women to cover up. We stopped for food at the halfway point (just outside Medina) and were hassled by the police to get back on the bus. Some men eating at a table spit at some of the people from the bus when they walked by....nice folk!

Anyway- imagine the rest and check out the pics. I'm off to India in 2 short weeks, then home for Christmas, then to Berlin and Bangkok in March....see you on the flipside.


Look for the pics here:

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Jeddah Jenn

Dubai for Eid

I spent the last 5 days in Dubai. It was amazing! My friend and I stayed at a friend of her family's house and they were wonderful hosts and gave us tours of the city, took us to an awesome restaurant for dinner (complete with wine and beer), to the Burj Khalifa, white sand beaches, the malls, and on an Arabian adventure riding camels and dune driving in the desert.

Dubai is unlike any place I've ever been and I was so happy my abaya was at rest in my suitcase the whole time. We got bumped to first class on our flight from Dammam to Dubai because this wicked cool dude was working and he was super nice and just put us in first class! When we told him it was our first time going to Dubai, he said "You'll have one question when you get back...how do I change my contract to Dubai!" He was so right. No problems in Dubai- friendly, laid back people (though the Saudis I've met have also been cool dudes), no covering, wine with dinner, people from all corners of the world, world's tallest building, malls with aquariums and skating rinks, and an indoor ski hill....what could be better. This is a must see for anyone coming to the middle east!

Maybe I'll go back in January for the 2011 marathon....but I'd have to enter myself in the half because there's no way I'll be ready for a full 26 miles by then.

I could go on forever about the trip, but I'd rather live life than write about it, so I'm out. The pics can do the talking. I'm trying to post public links for the first time, so I hope you can see them!

Back to work on Saturday....I'll never get used to having a case of the Saturdays!

Pictures (she says with finger crossed):

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Campus Sights

I took some pictures with a friend today. We went to the university and tried to capture some of the decorations in preparation for Ramadan celebration, which kicks off tomorrow night. The pictures don't even begin to do this place justice. We also went to the beach, where I'll begin windsurfing, as soon as I can get my hands on a swimsuit (I was so efficient, I packed mine in my shipment and who knows when it will arrive). I can't wait to go kayaking too!

The university buildings are impressive. Covered with solar panels and looming above palm trees, sand, and fountains, they're really quite a sight.

The large mosque is a 2 minute walk from my front steps and is gorgeous. It sits across the street from discovery square, where the campus shops and restaurants are situated. Its festive now because of Ramadan. The light posts are wrapped in colorful cloth, lanterns hang in the sky, and sitting tents have been set up for those who'll gather in the square for celebratory music tomorrow night.

Its tough not drinking water during the day when the temperature soars to 110 degrees, but I have to refrain from food and drink in public for now. It makes my head pound, but out of respect for those fasting in observance of Ramadan, I survive for a few hours, then retreat to my house for some "closet eating and re-hydrating." I wouldn't make a very good Muslim because I like food and water way too much to stop having it for 12 hours a day, one month a year. Plus, I like hugging my dog too much too. They have a great amount of discipline and devotion.

Bowie still loves it here, but his fur is shedding a lot because the only dog food I've been able to get him is Pedigree. I hope to find something better in Jeddah this week. Lots of late nights ahead for Ramadan! Bowie visited a friend's house today and she let him curl up next to her on the couch....he was in heaven. My diamond desert dog has become spoiled. He has his own couch in our house too! What have I done?

Yikes, its late and I have to be up in a few hours. That's all for now...check the pics.

Five Days in the Desert

The arrival at Jeddah Airport couldn't have gone any smoother. I came in on the same flight as three other single female teachers traveling to Saudi Arabia for the first time. Worried Bowie might not make it through customs, I explained to the KAUST meet and greet team (one really nice guy named Mohamed) that his paperwork was complete with the exception of an import permit, which was to be gotten from inside the kingdom. His english was limited and Bowie hadn't showed up at baggage claim yet, so he gave me the okay signal and we both giggled, with the understanding he didn't know what I meant.

Getting through security was a lot of fun. The two security guys chatted with me and another girl while they took our photos and got our fingerprints. The scanner was being stubborn, so one of the guards had to push down on the top of my hand, so the machine could read my prints. I could tell he was uncomfortable doing it and we both giggled. Afterward, they gave us some Arabic gum...think it was Wrigley's. They were both very nice and tried to make us feel comfortable. They made something I imagined would be difficult (not speaking any Arabic) a good time and we all shared a laugh together.

Mohamed walked us over to get our bags and when he saw Bowie's crate arrive, his eyes grew wide and he looked at me with a smile...this is when we really started communicating. He stepped to the side, took out his cell phone, and made a call. Thank goodness I arrived with 3 awesome women who helped me hoist Bowie off the conveyer belt and get his crate onto a baggage trolley. Mohamed came over after the phone call and asked if Bowie was mine. I told him "yeah" and he laughed and talked to Bowie though the crate door. We stumbled through a quick conversation about him, then I pointed to the name-tag on his crate and we both said Bowie. Mohamed got us through customs without any problems. The man he recently called (I assume about Bowie) came over to collect Bowie's paperwork, barely flipped through it, and motioned me through customs and into KSA. My bags weren't searched, nothing was even opened, and nobody gave me a hard time at all. The airport security, customs, and Mohamed were all kind and welcoming and we were out of the airport in 10 minutes. WHAT A BREEZE! On the way out, kids and adults ran over to Bowie's crate, barked at him, asked me his name, and stuck their fingers through to pet him. He was a big hit.

By the way- Bowie loved traveling! His tail was wagging and he was very relaxed, but excited to see me in the airport. Its obvious he tolerated flying fine and had no problems at all...besides being a bit hungry. Truth be told, I think he liked all the attention. He had lots of other dog passengers on the flight to Frankfurt, but made the trip to the middle east in peace and quiet- being he was the only dog watching over passenger baggage.

Bowie and I love where we're living-the townhouse is unbelievable and all of the people I've met who live and work here have been so kind and welcoming. The owner of the grocery wouldn't let me carry my bags home- he made me take a carriage and while still shopping, when he saw my basket was full, he took it from me, put it near the cash register, and got me a new one. Its refreshing and very, very easy living in close proximity such kind people.

A Lebanese maintenance man came to the house to fix a screen door. He was terrified of Bowie and put a chair in front of him to separate the two of them. By the time he left, he was telling Bowie to sit and calling to him. Of course...he forgot to shut the door and Bowie wanted to go home with the guys, so he followed them out, saw my neighbors across the street and ran over to greet them, then took off running toward the King Abdullah mosque which is 50 feet from my front door. I was horrified, grabbed his leash and my shoes and ran out after him.... The maintenance guys (Lebanese man scared of dogs included) called him back. He listened and ran back to my driveway- tail wagging! He really liked the workers and they got a kick out of him too, laughing the whole time and messing with the Lebanese man who didn't want to be near Bowie, and told me the dog was "much too, much too big dog who's legs too long."

The architecture on campus is amazing. There is still a lot construction going on because of the scope of the KAUST project, but even the areas not yet finished have the undeniable promise of spectacular views of the Red Sea. I'm blessed to be a small part of this.

Pictures to come soon...once my shipment arrives. HR said personal shipments should be here next week. I can't wait for my camera, bike, waterbottle, camelback, and some better running shoes to show up and I bet Bowie will be happy to see his crate and bowls.

Thanks for checking in...

Welcome to Shifting Sands...

Hi everyone,

I created this blog to chronicle my trip to Saudi Arabia, to teach second grade at an elementary school which is part of a larger science and technology school. I'll be living close to the Red Sea with my best friend, Bowie. He's a very cool dog with two different colored eyes, a big heart, and an amazing appetite. He's my desert dog and from time to time, I'll try to get across how he's doing. It might not be too uplifting at first- he is after all, a snow dog who likes to hunt red squirrel. He'll have neither snow, nor squirrels in Saudi Arabia. He'll have me, lots of sand, some heat, some kids, and some adult companions to hang out with. He's originally from a hot and humid farm in TN, so he'll fare okay. Its my first time teaching overseas and I'm excited for the opportunity and for all I'll learn while abroad. My aim is to blog about what I encounter while living an hour and a half north of Jeddah, right next to Mecca, and thousands of miles away from any geography familiar to me. Jeddah is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Saudi Arabia, being the main trade port for all things coming and going from that region of the Middle East. As of July 28th, the abaya will become a staple in my wardrobe. Please check back to experience the shifting sands of Saudi Arabia with me and Bowie. ~Jeddah Jenn