Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Nepal the Second Time Around: Langtang Valley Trek

So, with the school year well under way and a new onslaught of challenges which came with an exponentially growing student and staff body, I welcomed a chance to get out of the kingdom for a week. I have a very rewarding job, this year even more so. I work with wonderful teachers and kids and the school is in the process of a major overhaul, a face-lift that will ultimately change the way it looks forever. This change is a positive one, but a large undertaking and the stressful effects trickle down, even to my menial position on the totem pole of Kaust. I couldn't wait for this November's Eid al Adha/Hajj holiday. It meant one thing for sure for me: I would get back to the mountains. I would dance on the hillsides and feel the leaves in my hands. I would smell wet dirt and mud. My boot soles would grip to rocks. I fell in love with the place and decided (I think while I was still in Nepal this summer), that I had to go back to the Himalayas.

I convinced a friend to take the trip with me. The two of us left campus on a Wednesday night and touched down in Kathmandu (after a series of mildly inconvenient flight rerouting) at around 2pm, KTM time. The clouds caused a problem for our flight (as is the trend in a place stuffed in the middle of a mountainous region, complete with it's own weather system), so we circled around KTM until we ran out of fuel, then landed in Lucknow, India to refuel and wait for the clear skies to arrive in KTM. Thankfully, we landed a couple of hours later. The next day, the airport closed down for 4 days because of the clouds...I'm convinced Papa was up there, talking bullshit with someone high up and working out a deal for me. I after all, packed my travel set of cribbage- the game he taught me to play when I was no more than 7 or 8 years old. I'm certain he had a hand in our safe arrival at KTM.

We landed and spent a good hour and a half in the visa line. I went from standing, to wandering, to wavering, to sitting on the floor and reading. Every few minutes, I inched forward on my bottom, book out and open and bags in tow. I remember noticing there was a lot of German being spoken around me. I like the way German sounds...it's crisp and clean. Lots of right angles there. It isn't open for interpretation the way French or Italian are- you can't mistake the tone in German.

When we finally walked out of the airport, I looked to the left and saw, maybe the coolest thing I saw the entire week: Rovin our guide, holding a video camera and taping us (me) walk over to him. It was so good to see him again. We were all smiles and hellos, I introduced Loïc, and we got in the car. We met Ganesh (our porter) and Sangram (our driver) and went to the Ace office to see Prem before leaving for Sybru Bensi.

We arrived pretty late, so we only drove for about 3 hours and made it halfway to Sybru Bensi. We stayed in Trishuli, close to the Trishuli River. The legend goes: high in the Himalaya at Gosainkund, the god Shiva drove his trident into the ground to create three springs -the source of the river and hence its name, Trishuli. The river carved some truly impressive gorges in its lower part as it cut its way through the 2000 meter high Mahavarat Range. Nepal is a river runner's paradise because no other country has such a choice of multi-day trips away from roads with magnificent mountain surroundings, warm rivers, a semi-tropical climate, impressive geography, exotic cultures, wildlife and hospitable people. When I say I fell in love with the place, I mean it. It's a more incredible place than I could have dreamed was strewn across any map...real or made up.

Another shorter day of driving put us in Sybru Bensi and walking by 1pm. We stopped at about 6 that night in Bamboo. The whole thing was nothing short of birth like. I mean, I don't remember my birth (imagine how weird that would be), but I've got to guess it was full of newness, excitement, uncertainty, catharsis, tenacity, and anxiety.

P.S. I'm trying to find a way to work in Nepal, so I can live in Nepal. It feels like home, in a far away place. I also fell in love with my mountain guide (Rovin) when I was in Langtang. When I get back to Nepal, hopefully he's still there.

I could go on and on about the trek, but it would just be a bunch of words and they wouldn't be adequate. Check out the pictures. They aren't adequate either, but they set the scene.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2428832253493.127633.1632204269&type=1&l=49480a4882

If this works okay, you might be able to get a video here too. Copy and paste this into your URL bar:

http://www.facebook.com/v/2439260234186" /&gt
 *In this video, Rovin is nervously playing with a wooden pipe we found for sale on the table outside of the spot we stopped at for lunch. Nobody in our party used it or bought it, but I think he needed to fidget with something because he was nervous that I was taping. He kept putting it up to his mouth....cute! He explained it's a special pipe used to smoke marijuana.

http://www.facebook.com/v/2439339276162" /&gt
*In this video, I'm trying to do mini interviews with the guys. It turns into a little birth month survey, which wasn't planned but ended up being fun. Ganesh speaks very little English, so it's understandable how nervous he must have been...though he walks right up to the camera and introduces himself when Rovin tells him to.

See if you can hear the Nepali I'm speaking...I actually picked up quite a few words in Langtang. For some reason- communicating with these guys was much more important to me this time than it was this summer.

Catch you on the flip-side people. Thanks for staying tuned in.

Check out the website for Ace. They are a great trekking company, which I recommend to anyone visiting Nepal. Here's the link:

http://www.acethehimalaya.com/index.php

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Namaste! Nepal 2011

Well, it happened: I went to another place I've wanted to for a long time. After leaving Boston and 3.5 weeks with my family and friends this summer, I headed southeast on a 17 hour flight to drop off my luggage and repack for Nepal. After too much time in the air and the hassles of Kaust security, I dashed into my house and spent the next 6 hours frantically packing so I'd make my next flight heading...northeast. I got into Kathmandu pretty late, went right to the hotel and fell fast asleep.

I spent the next day sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley with a guide and driver. We went to Pashupati Area, which is on the river and includes a Hindu temple and old folks home. Nepalis have funeral ceremonies there and we saw a few cremations as we walked around. It was packed with people, some crying and some laughing and celebrating. We also went to the cultural city of Bhaktapur and took pictures of temples and shrines and all sorts of fun stuff. There is a pottery district in Bhaktapur, not far from famous Durbar Square. We watched artisans spin pots and haul hay in for drying the clay. We finished up at Boudhanath Stupa, where we ate lunch and went to see a Thangka school. Thangka is a popular form of Buddhist painting which involves a great deal of color and detail. The Boudhanath area is basically a big bazaar built around the stupa, where you can eat, shop, pray, paint, etc...mainly I ate and took some pictures.

The next morning, I flew to Lukla with a different guide, Rovin. We met our Porter, Santos at the airport in Lukla and began what we thought would be a 12 day program. Because of cloud cover in Lukla, we stayed an extra 4 days before returning to Kathmandu. Flights were canceled, so we stayed at the guesthouse playing cards and drinking Tongba. The trek was something hard to describe. It was an array of sights, smells, and surroundings. Sometimes I gaped at the landscape, sometimes I laughed, and sometimes I cried. I was very fortunate to be with Rovin and Santos and both of them took very good care of me. I stayed healthy the whole time, only coming down with mild altitude sickness symptoms which were easily resolved by an extra acclimatization day in Namche. It would be futile to go into an account of all the emotions I felt while there, so I'll leave the pictures to narrate.

When we got back to Kathmandu, I still had 3 days before I had to be in Saudi, so Rovin pretty much entertained me the rest of the time, taking me to the monkey temple (no pics....I was too busy relaxing), a close by hike, and all around Thamel and downtown Kathmandu for a traditional dal bhaat lunch. He taught me a good deal of Nepalese and became a good friend. I hope to go back again and again. Enjoy the pics....

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2129647774068.117335.1632204269&l=a687f7a29b&type=1

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2129629653615.117332.1632204269&l=789bcf8714&type=1


P.S. I really think this is something everyone should do if they have the means. It's a place unlike any I've been or even imagined. It will stay with me for a long time...probably always. Its not hard to do- trekking can be very cheap and even the walking isn't difficult in Everest Region. There are steep sections, but with varying terrain and experienced guides, it's feasible for people of most fitness levels.

If you do decide to do this, use the same company I used. Here is a link for them:
http://www.acethehimalaya.com/index.php

Friday, April 8, 2011

Masai Mara Kenya Africa

Everyone should do this sometime in their life. It was amazing! The camp was beautiful and the people were warm and kind and welcoming. We made friends with a Masai man who called himself Joseph, though his Masai name was Oleshargegilololtoriroi, meaning son of the man with a long bladed spear. He was amazing and dressed in his traditional Masai garb. He told us stories of his village and family and way of life. He actually met some campers and became friends with them a few years back and he now goes to Bangor, Maine every few years in the summer. He visits them at their lake camp. Hahaha! Maybe I'll catch up with him this summer, when I'm home.

We saw everything you can imagine. Even the Rhino and Leopard...which is a rarity. I went with 2 best friends here at Kaust and it was the most amazing thing I've ever done by far! I wish I was still there. We had Baboons in the front yard of our tent. We heard no sounds except for animals and the wind....

Pictures:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99467&id=1632204269&l=2015b7ab12
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99425&id=1632204269&l=a74827f909
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99464&id=1632204269&l=ed70bc8667
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99462&id=1632204269&l=83b9007921
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http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99460&id=1632204269&l=178e0142ff
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99459&id=1632204269&l=892b7e67d3
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http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99457&id=1632204269&l=758d9a9403
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=99456&id=1632204269&l=8de82ab3ee




Please go on a Kenyan safari and stay at the Mara Intrepids....you won't regret it. Look for Ole and get his ear for a moment. He's got some crazy stories!

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Desert Dog Debut

I know I don't update my blog enough and I've never put any pictures of Bowie on until now, but its gets cumbersome because every time I open the site, its in Arabic and I have to go through like 4 or 5 steps to get it back to English and its just...well, annoying. But this post is long overdue...my friends from the dog park have all reminded me and teased me about it...what about Bowie, how is Bowie, why no pictures of Bowie?

My dog is the only family I have on this wild ride with me, so its only right he should have some mention here and some pictures, so everyone out there can see what the coolest zoetic being on this green ball named earth looks like. He is a four legged treasure and has total unconditional love for me...its really quite a thing to see- he is my shadow and always stays close, laying at my feet at the end of the day, racing up and down the beach walk ways to make sure I'm still following the same path, and always waiting on the other side of the door, tail wagging. He wouldn't dream of abandoning me...not even to get out of the hot, dry desert. He is a wonder dog.

He can be seen here in his natural surroundings, hanging out at the weekly doggie play group we go to. See everyone, he really does get to have some fun on this adventure! I'll let the pictures do the talking. Also included are some lounging around the house photos and one set from a night we were washed out here with floods...some flood footage made on one of the albums. Enjoy!

See pictures here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=89149&id=1632204269&l=931860af66
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=89131&id=1632204269&l=1cac3684c2
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=88382&id=1632204269&l=bc79c127b7
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=87338&id=1632204269&l=ce8d7a619b